Do the spark plug test with the wire from the coil where it would connect to the distributor.
You should see a a shot of gas being squirted into each primary bore…You might be able to adjust the amount by manipulating the linkage to the pump…. Let me explain, I have a car with an identical engine and assumed I could just copy that engine’s layout on to my oldsmobile. Then the cap, rotor, transferred the coil over to the new cap, hooked it all back up and started it.
Be REAL careful of the fan and belts…Disconnect the vacuum line from the distributer advance during this procedure.
Any ideas on the smoke coming off the right (driver) side of the engine?
2. Car doesn’t start
1.3motor Fuel Injection 1992 Suzuki Swift,manual Transmission,engine Keeps Going Out Of Time And Stalls ,why, I have replaced the timing belt and tensioner,I reset everything and it does it again. The condenser is located inside the distributor it looks like a silver can with 1 wire on it. Thanks in advance…, Hesitation…Quadrabog …It kind of comes with the quadrajet carb. Sounds like you have a weak condenser or ignition coil or bad ignition module or weak battery. Switch spark plug wires on the distributor cap since they may not be connected correctly.
It does this at any speed, more noticeable at low speeds. Why was the engine smoking after the drive, is it because cylinders were not getting spark but still being moved? Checking your distributor rotor and cap to see if they need to be replaced is one way to ensure that everything is in solid working order. Hopefully this solves the rough idle and hesitation. It helps to have these labeled before you remove them from the old distributor cap, this way you know which spark plug wire goes where on your car's distributor cap. I did the wires first, one at a time.
With a little knowledge and some elbow grease, you can repair certain problems with the distributor cap on your car. What could cause this?
The end of the rotor probably retarded the timing, so you had fuel burning after the exhaust stroke was done, burning the incoming air and fuel on the intake stroke and firing back through the intake.
I have had bad aftermarket parts. Also, I’m having trouble finding a rotor with a brass contact terminal (the terminals on the cap are brass)…how important is it that the metal on the rotor matches the metal contacts on the cap? i think also you just need to set the timing. It may be nothing other than normal now that you have good spark, properly timed. The metal used in the rotor is not important. It was probably getting hot from the timing being messed up by the broken rotor. 3.8 Buick v6 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. If it is, you’re good to go. The cause of the yelling noise is due to the air circulation through the car engine. It is a manual and popping the clutch, Car Repair Manuals and Tips on Common Car Problems. I had the same kind of car and if that wiring isn’t connected to the spark plugs and the router is not fitted right along with the distributer this can cause it not to start.
You may also check the car's idle RPM to see if it is at a normal idle.
Engine misfires can occur for a number of reasons. Twist it back and forth to make sure it’s seated, and make sure that the spring-loaded hold-downs are in place (something you’re probably familiar with now. My brother-in-law was watching the cap while I started the car, and waved at me to kill the engine right away. Well, apparently I blew the coil when I installed the distributor incorrectly.
Look at the inside of the cap and make sure all of the terminals are intact, and the spring loaded button in the center is intact. Copyright 2020 Leaf Group Ltd. / Leaf Group Media. It could be many different sources however.
No clue where to go from here. The engine turns over fine but never starts. The cap should only fit one way, there is a notch or some other method of aligning the cap. Then the wires are connected in this order. It doesn’t sound like pinging or like it’s coming from the actual engine.
You will find it dirty, greased build-up and full of pollutants. Here are some problems that can go wrong with your car's distributor cap and how to repair them.
I got out and he said the entire cap turned about 20 degrees when I tried to start it. That is why it ran badly and heated the intake manifold. what would cause this? If it's up to standard then you most likely have switched the plug wires correctly and they are firing on all cylinders again. Seems to coincidental.
Timing being off can do that? Yellow spark is cold it should be a strong hot blue. Check to see that the accelerator pump is working by looking down the throat of the carb (engine off) and open the throttle quickly. I asked this question earlier but I think I confused people (myself included). If all else fails, try the original cap and rotor. Excessive wear and cracking means you need to replace the distributor cap with a new one. I’ve never checked timing before, is it complicated?
I’m posting this same answer in the other thread in case anyone is waiting for a follow up post on that thread only…Please help!
To adjust the timing, look down at the base of the distributer (is your distributer mounted at the front or rear of the engine?) usually a timing light is needed to be set.
Second, while I gotta admit the car has TONS more power now with the new coil (I’m guessing more from the timing adjustment and advancement though - 5 degrees), if I punch the throttle, it hesitates, almost like it’s gasping really…just for a second and then takes off…when it does this the RPM’s jump up a tiny bit, then drop to 500 for that second, and then back up as it gets power.
Try swapping coils with your other engine to confirm it. Distributor cap wasn't on right...did I damage anything serious. Find a length of garden hose and use it like a stethoscope to see if you can locate the source of the noise. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 and in the correct direction.
Without knowing which cutlass(Supreme, Ciera, Calais, Salon) and engine, it is difficult for myself or anyone else to provide you with the proper firing order.
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